Chios is my home island. I’ve lived here for most of my life, so I know how different a holiday can feel depending on where you choose to stay.
Chios is Greece’s fifth-largest island, and the distances matter more than many first-time visitors expect. You can spend one day exploring the medieval mastic villages in the south and another driving through the mountains of Amani in the northwest. Both are worth doing, but I wouldn’t choose the same base for every kind of trip.
For most first-time visitors, I recommend Chios Town (Chora). Karfas is the easiest choice for a sandy-beach holiday, while Mesta, Pyrgi and Volissos suit travellers who want to spend more time in the villages. If you’re planning to explore the island properly, I would rent a car. Without one, I’d keep my accommodation search around Chora or Karfas.
Here are the seven areas I would consider, with the reasons I’d choose each one and the accommodation options worth comparing.
1. Chios Town (Chora): best for first-time visitors
Chora is the most practical place to stay if you want to explore different parts of Chios. The capital sits on the eastern coast, roughly in the middle of the island, and has the main port, the largest choice of restaurants and shops, and the best public transport connections.
If you arrive by ferry, you may be able to walk to your accommodation, depending on where you book. The airport is 4 kilometres south of the centre, so a taxi is usually a straightforward option if you don’t have a rental car. There is also a separate port at Mesta, so check which harbour your ferry actually uses before arranging a transfer.
What I like about staying in town is that you can spend the day elsewhere and still have plenty to do in the evening. Aplotaria is the main shopping street, with cafés and tavernas in the surrounding lanes. The port waterfront, known as Prokymaia, is where you’ll find many of the bars and restaurants. Chora is also my first choice for nightlife, particularly if you want to go out without worrying about driving afterwards.
I would make time for the Castle of Chios, especially towards sunset. It is still an inhabited neighbourhood, with buildings from different periods and narrow streets that are worth exploring. For dinner, I recommend Vradipous, a mezze restaurant inside the castle. It is a good place to try local ingredients in dishes that go beyond the usual taverna menu.
Chora also gives you several beaches within a 15-20 minute drive. Karfas and Megas Limnionas are to the south, while Mersinidi, Monopetro and Glaroi are options to the north. Agia Fotia is another beach I would consider. Personally, I wouldn’t choose Bella Vista, next to the town, when there are so many better places to swim elsewhere on the island.
The drawback is that Chora is a working town, not a seaside resort. If you want to wake up beside a sandy beach, I would choose Karfas, Agia Fotia or even Komi instead.
Where to stay in Chios Town
- (€€€€) Royal Pearl Island Chios Hotel and Spa – Chios’s only five-star hotel within walking distance of the port. It has 48 suites, including swim-up and private-pool options, as well as a restaurant, bars and a wellness spa. I would recommend it to couples or travellers who want a luxury stay without giving up the convenience of Chios Town. It is also a good option if you plan to spend some time relaxing at the hotel rather than being out exploring every day.
- (€€€) Grecian Castle – A good choice if you want the facilities of a larger hotel while staying close to the centre. It has an outdoor pool, restaurant and private parking
- (€€) The Wine House – A one-bedroom apartment in the old part of Chios Town, with a kitchen, washing machine and living area. It is a better fit for a couple who wants their own space than for someone looking for hotel services.
- (€) Faidra Hotel – It has simple rooms, including a budget single, twin rooms and rooms with balconies and sea views.I would compare it for a short stay or if I wanted to spend less on accommodation and more time out exploring. It is above a restaurant, so I would check recent comments about noise if I were a light sleeper.
2. Karfas: best for families and a sandy-beach holiday
Karfas is the area I usually recommend to families who want an easy beach holiday. It is about 7 km south of Chios Town, close to the airport, Kampos and Thymiana.
The beach is long and sandy, with shallow, warm water. You can walk quite a distance from the shore before it becomes deep, which is one of the reasons families like it so much. There are also sunbeds, umbrellas, water sports, cafés and restaurants, so you can spend the whole day here without needing to go elsewhere.
Karfas was especially popular as a tourist resort during the 1990s and 2000s, and it still has a good range of hotels and apartments. It is not just for families, either. Couples who want a straightforward seaside holiday will find plenty of places to eat and have a drink, and Chios Town is close enough for an evening out.
There isn’t much sightseeing within Karfas itself, apart from the small theatre of Agia Eleni. I would spend some time walking along the coast towards Agia Ermioni and Megas Limnionas, or visit Kampos and Thymiana if I had a car.
I wouldn’t choose Karfas for traditional village life. It feels much more like a resort than Mesta, Pyrgi or Volissos. But if your ideal holiday involves swimming, lunch by the beach and very little planning, that is exactly its appeal.
Where to stay in Karfas
- (€€€) Sea View Resorts & Spa – One of the options I would compare first for a family holiday in Karfas. The property sits above the sandy beach and has studios and apartments, including sea-view units with kitchen facilities. There is also a pool, restaurant and spa. It is a good choice if you want the convenience of a resort but prefer the extra space of an apartment.
- (€€) Chios Room MyView – A smaller apartment property in Karfas with sea-view studios and one- or two-room apartments. Some of the larger units can accommodate families or groups, making it worth comparing if you want a kitchen and more space than a standard hotel room.
- (€) Efta Anemi – A good choice for couples or small families who want self-catering accommodation close to Karfas beach. The apartments have equipped kitchens, private terraces with sea views and access to the garden. The complex also has a swimming pool, café and parking. I would consider it if I wanted a quieter setting above the beach while still being close to Karfas’s restaurants and facilities.
3. Kampos: best for a quiet stay in a traditional mansion
Kampos is one of my favourite areas to recommend to people who want something different from a conventional hotel. It lies south of Chios Town and is known for its citrus orchards, high stone walls and old mansions.
The Genoese and local aristocracy began building estates here in the 14th century. Many of the houses have since been restored, and some now operate as guesthouses. The narrow streets, gardens and architecture give Kampos a character you won’t find in the beach resorts.
Spring is a particularly good time to visit, when the citrus trees are in bloom, but I would happily recommend Kampos at other times of year too. I enjoy the idea of staying in one of the old estates, having breakfast in the garden and then heading out to explore the island.
A visit to Citrus Museum at Perivoli is worthwhile. The museum explains the history of citrus cultivation and trade in Kampos, and it gives you a better understanding of the estates and the people who lived and worked here.
Kampos is close to both the airport and the capital, but I would still want a car. The accommodation is spread across the area, and it is not the place I would choose if I wanted restaurants and bars within a short walk every evening.
Where to stay in Kampos
- (€€€) Archontiko Riziko – The property I would look at first if I wanted the traditional Kampos mansion experience. It occupies a restored 18th-century Genoese mansion surrounded by citrus gardens, with ten rooms and suites.
- (€€) Sourediko Hotel – A restored early-20th-century mansion with a garden, parking and a choice of double, triple and attic rooms.
- (€) Topakas House – A smaller, traditional property in Kampos with apartment-style accommodation, kitchenettes and free on-site parking.
4. Mesta: best for a medieval village stay
Mesta is one of the villages I would tell every first-time visitor to see, whether they stay there or not. I’ve photographed it myself, and its architecture is one of the reasons I think southern Chios deserves more than a quick day trip.
The village is about 35 km southwest of Chios Town and belongs to the Mastichochoria, the mastic-producing villages. Its stone houses were built close together to form a defensive perimeter, with narrow passages and covered streets running through the settlement. Once you walk through the village gates, the atmosphere is completely different from Chora.
Mesta is a good base for exploring the southwest. Apothika, Salagonas and Mestousia Avlonia are among the beaches I would consider nearby, while Olympoi and the other mastic villages are also within easy reach by car. You can visit the Cave of Olympoi, explore the villages and spend the afternoon swimming without having to return to the capital.
I would definitely rent a car if I stayed here. Mesta is not on the beach, and although it has its own cafés and tavernas, you will want transport for the surrounding area.
For something sweet, I recommend Kanellos Loukoumades. The family revived its traditional loukoumades recipe in Mesta in 2012, and it is one of the places I like to point visitors towards. Later in the evening, have a drink at Paxata. Its terrace is a lovely place to sit after walking through the village’s narrow streets.
Mesta also has a separate harbour, Limenas Meston, about 4 km from the village. It is worth checking whether your ferry uses it, but I would not assume that every sailing from Piraeus arrives there.
Where to stay in Mesta
- (€€€) Byzantine Home in Castle – A restored traditional house inside the medieval settlement, with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room and a fully equipped kitchen. I would consider it for a family or small group who wants to stay together rather than book separate hotel rooms. The main appeal is being able to experience Mesta after the day visitors have left, while having enough space for a longer stay.
- (€€€) Mesta Mastic – Traditional rooms and apartments within the castle village, with stone arches, high ceilings and restored architectural details. Some units have their own equipped kitchens, while others are more suitable for a shorter stay.
- (€€) Lida Mary – Perfect for a couple who wants to stay inside the village but does not need a whole house.
5. Volissos: best for a quiet holiday in northwest Chios
Volissos is the largest village in northwestern Chios, about 42 km from the capital. It is built amphitheatrically on a hillside, with the remains of a castle above it. I would choose this part of the island for a slower holiday, with time to explore the villages of Amani and the western coastline.
One thing I would pay attention to when booking is whether the accommodation is in Volissos village or down by the sea. The hilltop village has traditional houses, cafés and tavernas. The seaside areas around Limnia, Limnos, Lefkathia and Managros are better suited to people who want to be closer to the beach. They are different kinds of stays, even though they are often grouped together under Volissos.
The beaches around here are among the places I would visit for a quieter swim. Some, including Agia Markella, are known for their cold water. Limnia is also a good place to stop for food or a drink by the harbour.
If you are visiting around July 22, keep the feast of Agia Markella in mind. Thousands of pilgrims visit the monastery near Volissos, and many make the journey on foot. It is an important celebration for Chios, and the area becomes much busier around those dates. I would book accommodation early if my trip coincided with it.
I would also recommend Volissos to anyone who enjoys sunset views. The western side of Chios has some of the best places to watch the sun go down, and I would make time for Avgonima on a trip through central and western Chios too.
Where to stay in Volissos
- (€€€) Rodonas-Apartments – The building once housed a coffee shop and later a cloth shop, and the old marble inscription is still visible above the entrance. Each apartment has a kitchen, washing machine and fireplace, making it a comfortable choice for a longer stay.
- (€€) MY Volissos Apartments – A good choice if you prefer to stay in Volissos village itself. The property occupies two adjoining restored buildings dating from 1890, with several apartment types. The larger family suite has a separate bedroom, loft sleeping area and equipped kitchen.
- (€) Lithos Homes – Five stone houses in the Pyrgos district of Volissos, below the castle. They have kitchen facilities and views over the village, plain and sea.
6. Agia Fotia: best for a pebble-beach holiday
Agia Fotini, which we usually call Agia Fotia, is a seaside settlement about 11 km southeast of Chios Town. It is one of the beaches I would recommend to someone who prefers pebbles to the sand of Karfas.
The beach has white pebbles and clear water, particularly when the wind blows from the north. It is popular with locals and gets busy during the summer, with beach bars, sunbeds and restaurants along the shore. Many families also choose it for their summer swims.
I like Agia Fotia as a base for people who want to spend most of their time by the sea without staying in a large resort. There are enough places to eat and have a drink during the summer, but the accommodation choice is smaller than in Karfas. I would check what is open if travelling outside the main season.
The beach is also a useful starting point for exploring the southeast. Kallimasia, Neochori and other nearby villages are easy to visit by car (but nothing special to be honest), and you can continue farther south towards Komi and the Mastichochoria.
Where to stay in Agia Fotia
- (€€€) Chios Xenia Studios & Apartments – A beachfront property with studios and apartments, kitchenettes and sea-view options. The property also has a restaurant and offers breakfast.
- (€€) Ilioxenia Chios Studios & Apartments – Another seaside option in Agia Fotia, with rooms and apartments just a short distance from the water.
- (€) Yolanda Studios – A family-run, self-catering property in Agios Ioannis, Kallimasia, just outside the main Agia Fotia settlement. The ten units have equipped kitchens, and the property has a garden, parking and access to the sea.
7. Pyrgi: best for exploring the mastic villages and southern Chios
Pyrgi is another village I have photographed myself, and it is one of the places I think visitors should make time for. It is the largest medieval village on Chios, about 25 km from the capital, and is known for the black-and-white geometric designs on its houses.
These designs are called xysta. They are created using a traditional decorative technique on the exterior plaster, and they give Pyrgi an appearance you won’t find elsewhere on the island. The village also has narrow streets, tall houses and important churches, including Agioi Apostoli.
I would choose Pyrgi as a base if I wanted to spend several days exploring southern Chios. The Chios Mastic Museum is nearby and is one of the places I recommend visiting to understand how mastiha is cultivated and processed. It gives useful context to the villages and to a product that is still an important part of the island’s economy.
Pyrgi is also well positioned for some of the beaches I would put high on a Chios itinerary. Mavra Volia, near Emporios, is known for its black volcanic pebbles and deep water. Agia Dynami and Vroulidia are other beaches worth considering in the south, while Komi is a good option if you want a long sandy beach with restaurants and organised facilities. The Cave of Olympoi is another attraction I would include while exploring the Mastichochoria.
Accommodation in Pyrgi is limited compared with Chora or Karfas, so I would book early if I specifically wanted to sleep in the village. I would also check the exact location carefully, as some properties advertised under Pyrgi are actually several kilometres away.
Where to stay in Pyrgi
- (€€) Rosette Apartments – A small apartment with traditional architectural details and modern kitchen facilities. The apartments have private bathrooms, equipped kitchens and balconies or terraces, making them worth considering for couples or families who want to prepare some meals during their stay.
- (€€) SKINOS rooms and apartment – A restored traditional building in Pyrgi with a small selection of rooms and a studio apartment.
Practical tips before you book
If you are visiting Chios for the first time, I would allow at least a week to get a good taste of the island. Four or five days are enough to see several places, but I would concentrate on a few areas rather than trying to cover the whole island.
A car makes the biggest difference if you want to explore the north, the Mastichochoria and the more remote beaches. Without one, Chios Town is the easiest all-round base, while Karfas works well for a holiday centred on the beach. The official tourism website confirms regular bus connections between Karfas and town, but I would check the latest timetable before planning excursions around public transport.
If your priority is a quiet sandy beach, I would also consider Komi in the southeast. For a quieter stay in northeastern Chios, Kardamyla and Nagos are worth looking at. I would choose any of those with a car, and only after deciding which part of the island I wanted to spend most of my time exploring.
For me, that is the main thing to get right with Chios. Choose your base around the holiday you actually want, and you’ll spend much less time driving back and forth and much more time enjoying the island.
