Leros is a quiet island in the Dodecanese, just a narrow stretch of sea away from Kalymnos. What I love about it is how it has stayed true to itself—no tourist overload, no flashy developments. Just the real thing.
It’s the kind of place you go to when you want to breathe. Lush hills, crystal-clear bays, and a sense of calm that’s getting harder to find these days.
Scattered around the island, you’ll find small, charming villages – each with cozy guesthouses and family-run hotels that actually make you feel welcome. Let’s take a closer look at some of them.
1. Agia Marina – Platanos, the heartbeat of Leros
On the eastern side of Leros, tucked into the Bay of Alinda, lies Agia Marina – one of the island’s two main ports and, in my view, one of its most charming corners. It’s officially classified as a rural, lowland, and traditional settlement, and thankfully, it still feels that way.
The whitewashed houses of Agia Marina climb the hill and spill into neighboring Platanos, the political and commercial hub of Leros. At this point, it’s hard to tell where one ends and the other begins – something about that blend feels organic and right.
Agia Marina is also where most visitors arrive. Ferries, fishing boats, even the odd yacht – it all comes through here. Stroll along the seafront and you’ll find a mix of modern cafés and classic Greek kafeneia. There are also a few small bars with views that make you want to sit and linger.
The real standout, though, is the Castle of Panagia above Platanos. You can hike up the 300 steps (which I’d recommend if you’re up for it) or drive up through Panteli. The 10th-century church inside the fortress is worth the effort alone—there’s something timeless about it.
If you’re into history, the Archaeological Museum of Leros is nearby too. Housed in an elegant building from 1882, it’s small but well curated.
Accommodation-wise, you’ll find lovely little hotels and guesthouses here—nothing fancy, but clean, welcoming, and budget-friendly. Just the way I like it.
Best Hotels in Agia Marina
- (€€) Nefeli Hotel Leros
- (€€) Il Canto delle Cicale
- (€) Utopia Hotel Apartments
2. Lakki, the Main Port of Leros
Lakki sits on the western side of Leros, tucked into one of the largest and deepest natural harbors in the Mediterranean. This is where ferries from Piraeus port, making it a key gateway to the island. It’s only about 4 km from Agia Marina, so getting around is easy.
What really sets Lakki apart is its architecture. A walk through the town feels like stepping into a different era. The Italians left their mark here with buildings like the Casa dei Balilla, the old Market Hall with its clock tower, the Town Hall, and the Casa del Fascio. The church of Saint Francis adds to the mix, giving the whole area a somewhat surreal, vintage vibe.
There are a few beaches nearby- Kokkina beach and Lakki beach being the closest. They’re mostly pebbly and fairly quiet, without sunbeds or beach bars. Personally, I like that kind of raw, unpolished coast. It feels real.
Places to stay in Lakki are limited, so if you’ve got your heart set on this area, it’s best to book ahead. It’s not overrun by tourists, which adds to the charm—but also means rooms go fast.
Best Hotels in Lakki
- (€€€) Bianco Hotel
- (€€) AELLIA HOTEL & SUITES LEROS
3. Panteli, a family-friendly spot by the sea
Panteli is tucked away on the eastern edge of Leros, just a short 1.5 km stroll from Agia Marina. It’s a postcard-perfect fishing village, set in a sheltered bay that opens to the southeast—and it’s easily one of my favorite corners of the island.
This place has barely changed over the years, and that’s part of the charm. Picture small boats bobbing gently in the harbor, the kind of quiet buzz you’d expect from a seaside village, and a setting that honestly feels straight out of an old Greek film.
If you’re traveling with kids, this is a top choice. The beach is small, clean, and safe – with soft sand and shallow, clear waters. Perfect for a relaxing swim while the little ones play without worry.
There are several tavernas right by the water, serving fresh seafood (some of the best on the island, if you ask me), along with a few classic cafés where time seems to slow down.
Accommodation options are modest but welcoming. You’ll find a couple of hotels, plus some rented rooms and family-run apartments that make it feel more like home than holiday.
Best Hotels in Panteli
- (€€€) Leros Windmills
- (€€) Anemi Leros Apartments
- (€) Nikis Studios
4. Alinda, Leros most popular beach spot
Alinda (or Alinta) is easily the most tourist-friendly area on the island. It has the widest selection of places to stay, from hotels to rooms for rent, and it’s just a quick 2 km from Agia Marina.
Set in the same sweeping bay, Alinda boasts one of Leros longest beaches. Soft sand, shallow turquoise waters – it’s ideal for swimming, especially with kids. It’s fully organized too: sunbeds, umbrellas, changing cabins, and a variety of water sports if you’re up for a bit of action.
If you prefer shade the natural way, there are a few tamarisk trees lining parts of the beach. Personally, I always go for the tree over the umbrella when I can.
It’s a lively area, but not overwhelming. Families love it here, and everything you need is close by- fish taverns, beach bars, cafés, even a mini market or two.
While you’re there, check out the Belleni Tower. It was once the home of Paris Bellenis, a contractor who worked in Egypt, and it’s now a lovely little folklore museum. It’s not huge, but it’s worth a quick visit between swims.
Best Hotels in Alinda
- (€€€) Alidian bay Suites Leros
- (€€) Hotel Marilen
- (€) Apartments Papafotis
5. Vromolithos, laid-back beach escape in Leros
Vromolithos is one of my favorite beaches on the island – calm, scenic, and just a short 10-minute walk from the marina in Panteli. You don’t need a car to get there, which is a big plus in my book.
It’s become a bit more popular in recent years, with a handful of hotels, apartments, and even a few private villas popping up – some owned by foreign visitors who clearly saw the charm.
Access to the beach is now limited to two main paths: one through the entrance of Paradisos restaurant, and the other just beside the Pigadi eatery. Easy enough to find.
The beach itself is long and organized, half soft sand, half small pebbles – take your pick. You’ll find umbrellas and sunbeds if that’s your thing, but there are also tamarisk trees for those who prefer a shady spot under the leaves.
It’s not crowded, but you’re not isolated either. A couple of tavernas and a relaxed café bar nearby make it easy to spend the whole day here without needing to go far.
Best Hotels in Vromolithos
- (€€€) Filoxenia Studios
- (€€) Tony’s Beach
- (€) Paradisso Studios
